April 25, 2024
This morning I woke up without a plan or any schedule to keep – my favourite kind of day vacation or not. After a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, I retreated to my room to do a little research on what I could do on my last day as a tourist in Porto.
Apparently the Bolhão Market is one of the most popular food markets in Porto, and no trip to the city is complete without a stop here so it goes on the list. I also wanted to do the cruise on the Douro and see a Fado show so they’re on the list too. Other than that and, of course, a glass of sangria at some point in a cafe, preferably with a view, I figured I’d just wander around and see whatever I saw.
On my way to the market, I passed a park with an interesting statue of Prince Henry the navigator, in battle dress, beside a globe and, symbolically, pointing overseas. The statue was inaugurated in 1900 to commemorate the 5th centenary of Prince Henry’s birth, the main figure of the Portuguese Discoveries.
The park sits across from the Bolsa Palace (stock exchange) and I contemplated a tour but decided to head to the market located behind the Sao Bento Train Station instead.
Approaching the old city from the east is a lot more sensible as the hills aren’t as steep so the going isn’t too bad. Sadly while checking my directions, I was advised that the market was closed for the National holiday. Doh! One thing off my list lol!
Undaunted, I spent some time wandering around the Sao Bento area and then the river walks on both the Porto and Gaia sides. There were lots of market stalls selling Portuguese souvenirs many made of cork so I did lots of “window shopping” but no buying. I just don’t need anymore stuff!
There were lots of singers on both sides of the river and the weather was pretty good so it was enjoyable just to wander. Bonus was I logged lots of steps!
Once I hit about 10,000, I rewarded myself with that daily dose of Vitamin C before finding the ticket seller for my six bridges river cruise. I met Kat in the line to board the boat – a lovely Scottish expat who sold her home in Sterling and is currently living in the Algarve. It was getting pretty chilly by late afternoon so we hung out inside the cabin and watched the bridges go by. Not sure this is a must do activity but we spent a lovely hour chatting and checking out the views.
Even though we’d sat inside, I wasn’t dressed for the chillier weather and as it was almost tea time, I headed back to the hotel for a hot shower and changed into nicer garb for the Fado show that Luis the hotel desk clerk had booked for me.
Fortified with a piece of lovely apple spice cake, I climbed the hill one last time up to Fado Na Baixa. Their multimedia show included a video discussing the roots of Fado and its evolution. It was a fabulous show and the singers and guitarists were superb. As a nice touch we all were given a nice glass of Port wine to savour during the show.
Here’s some of the skinny on Fado; your learning moment today, lol!
Although the origins are difficult to trace, today fado is commonly regarded as simply a form of song which can be about anything, but must follow a certain traditional structure. In popular belief, fado is a form of music characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea or the life of the poor, and infused with a sense of resignation, fate and melancholy.
Fado is usually accompanied by Portuguese guitar; a descendent of the cittern with six sets of two strings. Coimbra university students modified the guitar making it more pear shaped and the Lisboa and Coimbra guitars provide quite different sounds. The Lisboa guitar is rounder in shape with a shorter range and higher tone. The Coimbra guitar is more pear shaped with a broader range and lower tone. The show included amazing guitar solos as well as the two fado singers.
Song of Coimbra aka fado of Coimbra is characterized by male singers who are serenading their lovers. The black cape of the university students them from the chilly evening air. Capes have a rip or tear for all significant friendships or loves at university. Some must be quite tattered looking. Each year the students also write at least one fado song to bid adieu to Coimbra and university life.
The hour long show whizzed by and while it’s not late I’m still adjusting to the time here and I don’t feel like a big dinner so I headed back to the hotel to report back to Luis on my Fado experience.
Tomorrow I’m hopping the train to Lisbon. More adventures await …
Judy’s Rambles 